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Method

How we recommend power stations

Every recommendation on this site comes from the same published rules. Models are ruled out on hard limits first, then the rest are scored. Affiliate commissions are not an input anywhere in the process.

Updated

Where the numbers come from

Specs come from each maker's US product page or user manual, and each model lists its sources and the date we checked them. When a maker contradicts itself, we use the lower figure. When a spec isn't published, we leave it blank and mark it; models whose core specs we haven't confirmed are kept out of the quiz and charts. Appliance energy use comes from ENERGY STAR data, manufacturer manuals and utility wattage tables.

We don't run a test lab and don't claim hands-on testing. When we mention an independent measurement, we name who made it.

Step 1: rule out what can't work

Step 2: the runtime math

Runtime = rated Wh × 0.9 ÷ (AC watts ÷ 0.85 + inverter standby + DC watts ÷ 0.9)

The 0.9 is the share of capacity the battery management system lets you use. AC devices lose about 15% in the inverter, which also draws standby power while its outlets are on: 10–12 W for small and mid units, about 18 W for 2 kWh units and about 30 W for home-backup units unless the maker publishes its own figure. Fridges and freezers use typical daily energy, not running watts × 24. Cold weather cuts usable capacity by about 15% around 14°F and 35% near −4°F. We show a range from 15% below to 5% above the estimate.

Step 3: score what's left

Unconfirmed core specs and older models lose a few points. We show no more than two models from one brand, so you see real alternatives.

What we leave out

We don't show prices, because Amazon prices change by the hour; the budget question uses broad price bands that we recheck regularly. We don't show star ratings. And nothing about which store or program pays us is part of the score. See the affiliate disclosure.